Sunyaragi Cave is a complex of man-made “caves” built in the early 1700’s by the then Sultan of Cirebon as a water palace (Taman Sari) where he could relax with his harem. The water has long since been drained from the site but the remaining structures now form one of the main tourist attractions for the small city of Cirebon.

The name Sunyaragi comes from the words Sunya (lonely) and ragi (body). This is quite apt given that one of the principle functions of the site was to provide a space for the Sultan to meditate.

The Sunyaragi complex contains a number of “caves”, rooms, gapura and Javanese pavilions with Joglo (Joglo refers to the shape of the roof of a house and is traditionally associated with Javanese nobility).

The most notable of the structures here are Goa arga Jumut, Goa Kelanggengan, Goa Padang Ati, Goa Peteng, Cungkup Goa Puncit, Mande Beling, Goa Pawon, Goa Simanyang and Goa Pengawal.

Despite the “caves” being formed from what appears to be hardened coral (possibly volcanic rock too?) the architectural styles of buildings (and additional artistic/sculptural motifs within the complex) appear typically Javanese with the incorporation of Hindu, Islamic and Chinese cultural influences.

Although the condition of the site is poorly maintained in parts (the unfortunate presence of discarded waste packaging in some of the “caves” and a collapsed wall section to the rear of the site) the Sunyaragi cave complex is a fascinating location to visit.

I don’t know the full history of the complex (as I didn’t pay for the guided tour option) but it’s fascinating to walk through the remains of the site (which have been clearly renovated in parts due to the mixture of different structural materials) knowing that the Sultan’s harem would have spent many hours bathing and relaxing there.

This is pretty hard to imagine given the state of the caves now; devoid of water and composed of sharp, jagged and quite dangerous rocks (I believe this is actually hardened coral?) I cannot picture that being a safe location within which to relax and enjoy the pleasures of the flesh but then the site has likely changed dramatically since its inception in the early 1700’s.

You’ll likely spend at least one hour (if not two to three hours) wandering around the complex, visiting the different caves/locations within the site and traversing the various routes that are available. Be warned: you’ll be constantly surprised at discovering new passageways and routes within areas of the complex that you have already visited.

Just outside of the entrance to the caves, near to the ticket office, is a cafe area with a small market nearby supplying refreshments and souvenirs. The usual sort of set-up for most tourist based attractions.

A word of warning

DO proceed slowly and carefully as you wander through the site and the different caves and passageways that are contained within the complex as some of the pathways and staircases are quite narrow, the hardened jagged coral exterior walls are potentially quite dangerous and in some parts there are very steep drops to the ground far below.

It would be VERY easy to injure one’s self here so DO proceed with the utmost caution.

Final points to consider

You might want to consider visiting the Sunyaragi caves early in the morning so as to avoid heavy visitor footfall. Given that this is a popular tourist location and the passageways and routes in and around the caves can be quite tight and precarious in parts you’d be be best visiting there around 8AM, shortly after opening, so as to have as much of the place to yourself as possible (highly recommended).

Finally, as this is South-east Asia, load up on the sunscreen, bring an umbrella and drink lots of water. The heat in this part of the world can be ridiculous for the unprepared so stay safe as far as you can whilst visiting the caves.

Fee

Entry to the caves costs 15,000 IDR (equivalent to £0.82 GBP and $1.07 USD….VERY cheap).

I believe that a guided tour commands a higher fee but I can’t recall what that exact charge was.

The ticket price does represent excellent value for money though (despite some of the low star ratings that certain visitors have provided on sites like TripAdvisor).

Getting there

The Sunyaragi caves are located at Jalan Brigjen Darsono, Kesambi, Cirebon city and are easily reachable by taxi (or other similar transport).

If you are driving by car there is also ample parking space within the car park outside the ticket booth and cafe/market area.