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Malaysia (Malacca - A famosa)

A Famosa

Friday 4th October 2019

Exterior of A Famosa's remaining gate - seen from the front flanked by 2 cannons

A Famosa is one of the most famous/well-known landmarks in Malacca yet, paradoxically, it is also one of the least satisfying tourist locations due to its small size, dilapidated nature and limited features.

Situated in the heart of Malacca city at the foot of St Paul’s Hill the remnants of this 16th Portuguese fort, although historically interesting, are sadly far less impressive and engaging than one might expect.

Of the once mighty fortress that existed in that location the remaining structures now consist of a single gate known as Porta de Santiago, some cannons and a few remnants of the fortress walls. It’s a somewhat disappointing and sad sight to see, particularly given the historical importance of that building, and one where a visit will take no longer than a maximum of 10 minutes.

Malacca - exterior view of remains of Portuguese fortress A Famosa

Cannon and remaining walls of Portuguese fortress A Famosa

I can’t help but feel that more could be done with A Famosa - such as providing some information boards nearby that provide more context about the location and its importance in the city’s history  (I.e. illustrations showing what the fort looked like at its peak, the role it played in the region, day to day life in the fort etc).

There’s a wealth of information that could be related to the visitor about that location but, for some reason, that just hasn’t happened. That just doesn’t make sense to me and it feels like such a missed opportunity. The wasted potential for celebrating the history and importance of that location seems quite negligent in my humble opinion.

A little history

Amongst the oldest surviving European architectural remains in Southeast Asia A Famosa was built in 1511 shortly after Portuguese captain Alfonso de Albuquerque and his fleet landed in Malacca and defeated the armies of the then Sultanate of the region.

At its peak the fortress consisted of four towers connected by long ramparts. One of the towers was a four-storey keep while the others, in turn, consisted of the captain’s residence, officers’ quarters and ammunition storage. The interior of the fortress also saw town houses where most of the villagers resided.

The fort was extended around 1586 as the growth of Malacca’s population exceeded the size of the original fort and in 1641 the fort was taken over by the Dutch who drove the Portuguese out of Malacca.   

Dutch East Indies Emblem above the arch of A Famosa's gate

Renovations that were made by the Dutch to the fort’s gate in 1670 are reflected in the inscription ANNO 1670 which can be seen above the arch and, above this, a bas-relief of the Dutch East India Company’s emblem.

In the late 18th Century the fort changed hands again - from the Dutch to the British - and in 1807 was almost entirely demolished (as the British were wary of the time, cost and manpower involved in maintaining the fortress).  If it weren’t for the intervention of Sir Stamford Raffles we might not even have the current remnants of the fortress that serve as a testament to its existence.

Overall experience

As described earlier the experience is limited - as there really isn't a lot of the fortress that remains today - but, what does remain, is worth seeing (particularly if you're interested in the history of that region).

I particularly liked the views from inside the gate as shown below.

A Famosa gate - looking towards Jalan Kota

A Famosa gate - looking towards St. Paul's Hill

A Famosa gate interior

You really won't spend much time here - maybe 10 minutes maximum.

The Porta de Santiago gate (along with the handful of cannons still in place and the remnants of the fortress walls) although limited in tourist potential (at least in its current state) is quite thick and provides some idea of how large the fortress must have been in its heyday. Given that this location used to house not only a garrison of soldiers but also townhouses where the majority of villagers lived it's a little sobering to see how all that remains of this once mighty structure is a gate with some cannons and dilapidated walls.

Side view of remaining gate at Portuguese fort A Famosa, Malacca

Cannon to the right of A Famosa fortress gate in Malacca

Getting there

Situated on the corner of Jalan Kota and Jalan Parameswara the A Famosa landmark is easily reachable by foot, taxi, car or motorbike.

The remnants of the fortress are also situated at the foot of St Paul's Hill and within walking distance of another famous Malacca landmark: St. Pauls Church.

Stairway leading up St. Paul's Hill showing the view towards the remains of Portuguese fort A Famosa

Fee

Entry is free.

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