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Indonesia (Bali - Lempuyang temple the gates of heaven)

Lempuyang Temple - Gates of Heaven

Sunday 15th March 2020

Panoramic view of outer sanctum of Lempuyang temple and Mount Agung

Lempuyang temple (Pura Penataran Agung Lempuyang), situated in Karangasem regency is probably one of the most instagrammed locations on the island of Bali due to the popular Gates of Heaven photo spot which, in most visitor’s mind’s, is the only reason to visit Lempuyang temple.

It’s not hard to see why this location is so popular as the breathtaking view of the surrounding countryside set against the backdrop of Mount Agung is nothing short of spectacular (and I was fortunate enough to visit on a very clear, sunny morning).

It’s kind of sad that a location with so many layers of cultural and historical significance has been reduced to simply nothing more than an instagram selfie opportunity for far too many self-absorbed narcissistic travelers but such is the motivation of many in our “enlightened” times.

A little history

Lempuyang temple outer sanctum with dragon stairs leading to Paduraksa portals

Lempuyang temple is one of the oldest Hindu temples on the island of Bali originally built in the 11th Century AD (Besakih temple, situated roughly 40km away, is - so I was reliably informed by a local Hindu guide - the oldest Hindu temple in all of Indonesia that was originally built in the 8th Century AD).

Lempuyang temple is considered as Sad Kahyangan Jagad - the six sanctuaries of the world - one of the six holiest places of Hindu worship in the island of Bali.

These places of worship are as follows:

  • Besakih
  • Lempuyang
  • Goa Lawah
  • Uluwatu
  • Batukaru
  • Pusering Jagat

The site

Lempuyang temple consists of seven temples, situated along a hiking path on Mount Lempuyang,  with the main temple Pura Lempuyang Luhur sitting 1,175 metres above sea level towards the peak of Mount Lempuyang.

Lempuyang Candi Bentar

The main attraction - the Candi Bentar (split gateway) popularly known as the Gates of Heaven -  marks the entrance to the outermost sanctum (jaba pisan) of the Pura Lempuyang Luhur temple.

Within this outer sanctum of the Pura Lempuyang Luhur temple are several Balinese pavilions (bale), a courtyard and three sets of stairs (dragon stairs) leading to the Paduraksa (also known as Kori) portals which mark the entrance to the middle sanctum (jaba tengah) of the temple.

Paduraksa portals atop dragon stairs at Lempuyang temple

Lempuyang temple outer sanctum with Candi Bentar (Gates of Heaven) and Mount Agung in the background

Getting there

Given the temple’s relatively remote location in north-eastern Bali there is NO public transport available for any traveler wishing to visit the site.

Your only option will be to hire a private driver.

I was lucky that my homestay arrangement allowed me to book a driver for the day where I could visit Lempuyang temple, Taman Tirtagungga, Besakih temple and Tukad Cepung waterfall - all in the same day - for 700K IDR (roughly £38.13 GBP or $46.90 USD).

This would definitely be your best option - arrange a booking that combines visits to other nearby locations so as to maximise your travel time and budget.

Expected fees

Booking a private driver will costs anywhere around 500,000 - 800,000 IDR and entry to the temple itself will cost around 20,000 IDR.

Observe the rules

ALL visitors must wear a sarong - which will be supplied as part of the ticket fee by staff near the entrance to the temple grounds - and the following rules must be observed:

Lempuyang temple rules

Timing your arrival

The best time to arrive at Lempuyang Temple would be 7AM, or shortly beforehand, to avoid the huge queues that many tourists have reported whilst waiting for that much anticipated photo at the Gates of Heaven spot.

This means, depending on where you are situated in Bali, that you will likely need to start your travel to Lempuyang around 5AM (as I did from my homestay in Ubud) or even earlier - so be sure to get enough sleep beforehand!

Your number is

I arrived there shortly before 7AM and, after paying the entrance fee, was assigned a ticket informing me that I was visitor number 36. This ticket was purely for the photo opportunity in front of the Gates of Heaven spot - with the photo being taken on my cameraphone by the temple staff. Initially I thought the numbering of the ticket meant there would be 35 people ahead of me but I actually discovered that a single ticket could accommodate more than one person.

Thankfully this wasn’t really an issue though as there was only a small group of people waiting for their photo ahead of me. Within 20 minutes of arrival, like many thousands of others who had visited the location before me, my presence there had been captured in front of the Gates of Heaven and my visit was over.

Gates of Heaven pose

I was impressed with the physical filter used by the temple staff member responsible for taking the visitor photographs as the effect was quite impressive (and it's a great gimmick that they've hit on as a way to potentially generate additional visitor donations - and why not make some money in that situation?).

Although not mandatory DO be sure to give a small donation for the photo though (10,000 - 20,000 IDR should be more than sufficient) as I think this is only polite.

I hate to think just how busy that spot could get through the late morning onwards, particularly with what I have read from many online reviews where people bemoan the long queues and waiting times. I could easily imagine hundreds of tourists stood in line for that all-important photo and that would definitely ruin any visit for me - particularly with how I have seen many tourists in Bali behave (and it is depressing to see just how ignorant, vulgar, disrespectful and utterly self-centred many visitors to this island can be).

If you’re planning to visit DO get there early!

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