Lawang Sewu (Javanese for thousand doors) is the site of the former headquarters of the Dutch East Indies Railway Company. Built between 1904 and 1907 the building now serves as a tourist attraction that covers key elements of the history of Indonesia’s railways.

In the grounds of Lawang Sewu sits a decommissioned C2301 Steam Locomotive train which I believe was the only one of its kind to be transported from the Hartmann German factory for use in the then Dutch East Indies:

Upon entering the buildings of Lawang Sewu you are immediately struck by just how large the site actually is. The corridors of the two main buildings of the site feel almost endless and this impression is further reinforced by the size and emptiness of many of the rooms contained within there.

Just from the size and emptiness of the many rooms it’s not hard to see why the site has a reputation for being one of the most haunted landmarks in all of Indonesia. There are many ghost stories surrounding Lawang Sewu; from headless ghouls wandering the corridors of building B (which was used as a prison during World War 2 by the Japanese military and reportedly saw the torture and numerous executions and beheadings of unfortunate prisoners detained within there) to the on-site suicide of a young Dutchwoman in the early parts of the last century.

There's even a 2007 horror film by the same name whose plot draws on the supposedly haunted nature of the building. 

Such ghost stories were likely amplified by the extremely dilapidated and damaged state of the building prior to to its renovation in 2011; its previously white walls were then blackened by the toll of years of air pollution and neglect along with the rotting interior housing only mould, weeds and colonies of mice and rats.

It’s hard to imagine that this magnificent building was, until quite recently, practically a rotting husk of its former self. Thankfully the restoration efforts that have since taken place have largely restored Lawang Sewu (I have read that there are ongoing plans to develop the site further) and made this an attractive tourist location that sees up to a thousand visitors a day.

As you walk around Lawang Sewu the sheer size of the building leaves you feeling almost dwarfed; the corridors seem to stretch on far into the distance and the emptiness of many of the rooms contained within there only serve to enhance that impression.

The Dutch colonial architecture is impressive and incredibly beautiful (predictably affording many opportunities for photography) and the variety of exhibits contained within the building offer an interesting window into the past history of Indonesia’s railways.

The watercolour paintings of different stations located throughout the Javanese isle were quite beautiful although it was the old black and white photographs (dates unknown but likely late 1800’s/early 1900’s) of train journeys and people working the railways which I found most fascinating and moving.

That window into the past is always a precious reminder of how quickly that which once was can be forgotten and erased from memory were it not for such documents as those photographs. How much of that history has been completely lost for current and future generations to be able to pour over and appreciate?

It’s always sobering to think how much human labour and investment was channeled into such periods in history only for the relentless passage of time to wipe so much of that from public knowledge.

There’s also a fantastic film consisting of archived footage from those early years of the Indonesian railways system which you are able to watch in a small viewing area towards the end of building A.

A nearby stray cat decided to accompany me during my viewing of the film. I guess the little guy was eager for the company :)

Unfortunately the exhibits aren’t clearly signposted and a visitor to Lawang Sewu can find themselves passing through many empty rooms before encountering a random exhibition space. This makes for a very disconnected exhibition experience as it’s not at all apparent how the history being displayed there is structured and how each exhibition space connects and flows from one to the other. Additionally not all exhibits are accompanied by English signage which predictably hampers the ability to fully engage with the items being displayed (even as interesting and inviting as they might be [and often are]).

This, unfortunately, is indicative of many tourist attractions in Indonesia which is quite disappointing. For a country so rich in history, culture and the wealth of stories that could be shared with both native and foreign visitors the educational, economic and tourist potential that so clearly exists is not being fully realised. Hopefully this will improve over time but it is saddening to see such opportunities not being realised to their fullest potential.

Lawang Sewu, even with the somewhat randomly displayed nature of the exhibits, is a tourist attraction that should be on your must-see list when visiting Semarang. Just the experience of walking through the long corridors of the Dutch colonial building and seeing the architecture and vast internal space of the location is worth the visit alone.

As to whether the location is haunted (as many locals believe) I can’t say but whatever your beliefs on the subject of the supernatural/paranormal Lawang Sewu is one amazing building that definitely warrants a couple of hours time of any tourist visiting Semarang.

Getting there

Lawang Sewu is situated on the corner of Jalan Pemuda opposite the roundabout where the Tugu Muda monument is situated. The location is easily reached by foot, bike, car or public transport. 

Fee

Entry to Lawang Sewu costs 15,000 IDR (roughly £0.82 GBP or £1.07 USD).