During my last full day in Semarang I spent a few hours visiting the Old Town quarters of the city where a lot of the previous Dutch colonial administration appears to have been based.

I started out at Polder Tawang, opposite Semarang Tawang the main train station in Semarang. A Polder is a man-made system of controlling the water level in the Old Town introduced to Indonesia by the Dutch. This was quite beautiful and, as an added bonus, a decommissioned railway train was situated in front of the Polder opposite the road from the train station.

A short walk from Polder Tawang is Taman Garuda; a small park - and I do mean small…literally a handful of benches and a wooden sculpture of the Garuda; a mythical golden eagle that serves as the main icon of the national emblem of Indonesia.

There were, as expected during my walk through the Old Town, many grand buildings from the Dutch Colonial era; some of which were still in use while others sadly languished in states ranging from mild disrepair to almost total ruin. It was saddening to see that level of neglect existing in a part of the city steeped in such significant history (that the local government should step up and make more of an effort to preserve) but, if nothing else, that did afford some beautiful photographic opportunities.

It’s frustrating though to see how much unrealised potential exists for renovating/restoring the Old Town that could see additional museum and tourist attractions that celebrate and highlight the history of that area of Semarang. The possibilities for education, employment, economic development and increased tourism are clearly there but nothing seems to be happening (at least none that I have been made aware of when talking with locals). Hopefully the local government and/or private enterprise will pull their fingers out and start realising that potential in the not-too distant future.

One of the most notable buildings in the Old Town region of the city is Gereja Blenduk (Blenduk Church), a protestant church built in 1753. The church is topped by a large copper dome from which it derives its name (Blenduk is the Javanese word for dome).

Next to the church is a small park Taman Srigunting which, thanks to the number of trees present, provides some much welcome protection from the sun (and in this region of the world that is always a relief). There’s a small bike near to the centre of the park with a donation box on the curb bordering the nearby flowerbed. This appears, as with similar bikes situated on the same street between the 3D Trick Art Museum and Blenduk Church, to be a donate-if-you-wish-selfie spot (as I couldn’t see anyone stood nearby looking to charge and collect said money for tourists sitting on the bike and taking selfies).

Unfortunately the park was quite crowded with people and due to its small size I can’t imagine this would be a place where relaxation could be found during the working hours of the day; early morning and late evening maybe but definitely not during the day. Maybe I’m wrong but the place was pretty busy in the 2 - 3 hours that I spent exploring the Old Town quarters of Semarang.

Adjacent to the park is Spiegel’s bar and bistro; a delightfully modern and spacious venue (but with a retro colonial style - mainly due to the architecture of the building which appears to date from the Dutch colonial era) that serves up coffee, cocktails and a wide variety of cooked dishes.

I’m not a regular visitor to such venues but I could have spent the rest of the day sat inside Spiegel’s. The atmosphere was perfect for winding down and relaxing after time spent walking around the streets of the Old Town under the sweltering heat of the Indonesian sun. Soft music in the background. The murmur of families dining at nearby tables. Individuals drinking at the bar. A cool, but not cold, air conditioned temperature. Framed pictures featuring Western product advertisements from the middle years of the last century. Ample seating and space to eat, drink or simply relax undisturbed by the presence of others.

Definitely a place I would visit again if I were to return to Semarang.

I wandered down some side streets shortly after leaving Spiegel’s and came across some unexpected but delightful sights such as this chair and umbrella:

As well as this incredible system of roots which look like something out of a fantasy illustration:

There are further sights to see in the Old Town that weren't covered in this article (such as the Trick Art Museum and a nearby gallery and auction house) and should you happen to visit this part of the city, one word of warning.....DO take an umbrella to protect yourself from that sun (and watch out for the traffic making it's way through the Old Town....particularly those bloody scooters!)  

Getting there

Depending where you are located in Semarang you can either reach the Old Town by foot, car, bicycle or public transport.

Fee

Visiting and walking around the Old Town is free although there are a number of cafes/restaurants and similar tourist/visitor oriented establishments situated in the area whose services operate on a pay-for basis.