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Indonesia (Yogyakarta - Candi mendut)

Candi Mendut

Sunday 8th September 2019

Candi Mendut is a Mahayana Buddhist temple that was founded in the 9th Century AD during the reign of King Indra of the Syailendra dynasty (the Syailendra dynasty emerged during the 8th Century and actively promoted Mahayana Buddhism throughout the Kedu plain of Central Java).

Located in Mendut village in the Mungkid sub-district of Magelang Regency, Central Java the temple is situated approximately 3 kilometres east of Borobudur and sits on an imaginary straight line that connects Candi Mendut with both Borobudur and Pawon across the Progo river.

Interestingly, during the annual Vaisak ceremony Pawon temple is not passed as part of the ceremonial pilgrimage from Mendut to Borobudur.

Mendut is the earliest of the 3 temples  - the origins of which are described through inscriptions written on five pieces of stones discovered in Karangtengah hamlet, Temanggung Regency, Central Java (roughly 49 kilometres away from Mendut temple).

Known as the Karangtengah inscriptions these, according to translations from Dutch archaeologist JG de Casparis, detail how Mendut temple was founded in 824AD by King Indra and was known as “crimad venuwana” - which means a holy building in a bamboo forest.

The temple

Candi Mendut buddhist temple - front view

The temple itself consists of a single structure standing approximately 85 feet (26 metres) with steps leading to an inner sanctum consisting of 3 statues; one of the Buddha, seated directly in the centre of the sanctum, and one smaller statue seated to either side.

Candi Mendut Buddha statue flanked on either side by 2 Boddhisatva statues

The hands of the Buddha statue are making the dharmachakrapravartanamudra (the Gesture of turning the wheel of law) which is commonly found in South/South-east Asian Buddhist iconography of the mid-to-late first millennium.

Candi Mendut buddha statue making hand gesture

On the left side of the Buddha the statue of Boddhisattva Avalokitesvara is located with his right hand held in the varamudra (giving blessing) posture and his left hand in vitarkamudra (preaching).

Statue of seated boddhisattva Avalokitesvara at Candi Mendut temple

On the right side of the Buddha the statue of what is believed to be a Boddhisattva is seated although research has been unable to identify which deity this represents. It is believed this could be Manjusri, Maitreya or Vajrapani.

Unknown bodhisattva statue at Candi Mendut temple

There are also four niches, one for each corner of the inner sanctum, which are believed to have held another four Boddhisattva statues although these are no longer able to be located, likely having been removed/stolen at an earlier date.

Around the exterior walls of the temple are 33 bas-relief carvings which tell different Jataka stories (animal fables) which are concerned with ‘how to acquire merits for future life’ and focus on Buddhist virtues such as generosity, helpfulness and self-sacrifice.

Candi Mendut temple bas-relief carving

Candi Mendut bas-relief carving

The bas-relief carvings, like the temple, are remarkably well preserved likely due to restoration work undertaken from 1897 through to the early 20th Century to ensure that the ravages of weather and time (as well as the removal of various parts of the temple structure) have been minimised and offset as far as possible.

Bas relief carving on rear of Candi Mendut temple

Unfortunately the temple structure is all that remains of what was once a complex of structures related to Buddhist prayer and, presumably, daily life for the monks that lived there.

Nearby, in the corner of the field that surrounds the temple, is a huge banyan tree with seating areas - which forms an impressive sight (and helps provide some such needed cover and respite from the heat!)

Banyan tree at Candi Mendut temple

The fee

Compared to the entry fee for Borobudur the ticket price for Candi Mendut was very cheap - I think it was 5,000 or 20,000 Indonesian Rupiah (although don’t quote me on that - my memory is hazy as far as costs are concerned).

Getting there

The ideal way to visit Candi Mendut (as well as many of the other temples in the Yogyakarta region) is to book your own private driver, which is my preferred option, or take an organised tour.

Booking a private driver should cost somewhere in the region of 500,000 Indonesian rupiah (roughly £27.67 or $35.64 USD - depending on the exchange rate) for approximately 10 hours of their time. This cost covers pick up at your hotel/home stay and drop-off as well as driving to and visiting many of the different temples located throughout the Yogyakarta region.

The additional benefit of a private driver is that they should be familiar with the area and able to provide solid recommendations on where to visit as well as supplying background information on the history.

This fee likely won’t cover their meals which you will be expected to additionally pay for - but this should not be a problem given what value for money you get with your own private driver.

This is the approach I took when visiting the Yogyakarta region and I can highly recommend a gentleman by the name of Subardi (reachable on +62 8564 3866 759) whose driving services, English language skills (as my Bahasa Indonesia is still at a very, very basic level) and friendly nature made for a fantastic day out.

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